GETTING YOUR DOG  'BIRDY'

This is not usually much of a problem with most spaniels as their hunting instinct is quite natural. But it doesn't hurt to develop this ability. Ideally, you should start when your dog is just a young puppy. The sooner - the better. However, if you have an older dog you are interested in training, this preliminary work will be an advantage before actually taking your dog out in the field.

1. Tie bird wings on a small canvas dummy with nylon fishline or rubber bands. Have'fun' training sessions with your dog for no more than 5 minutes every day. always work with one dog at a time. Throw it for him (short distance at first, on leash) and when he grabs the dummy, coax him back into your arms, always by clapping your hands and making a fuss over him. Let him hold it for a few seconds while you are praising him. Don't let him think that you are just going to take it right away from him. Then sit him at your side - holding him with your left arm - and throw the dummy again. Repeat this 2 to 3 times - but end with a successful retrieve. You want to end the session while the dog is still interested, wanting to do it again. If he refuses to go out to get the dummy, go with him, encouraging him constantly. This is why you want to keep the dog on a leash or long line. A dog that runs away with it is too be avoided. If he does this, just follow him until you can take the dummy away from him without any commands. End the session right then....and try again the next day, using the leash or line so that he can't run off with the dummy! Never make this a chasing game, just take the dummy away so that the dog will realize that this is not a game. Never let him chew (or mouth) the dummy - only let him hold it enough to get used to the feathers. By the same token - pry it loose from his mouth gently --
   
   DON'T make it a tug of war. He must learn he is to'give' it to you.
   
2. A fishing pole with the bird wing attached at the end of the line is another method of getting you dog interested in the bird.  This is especially good for puppies as they are quite intrigued by things that dangle in front of them. Lower it enough so that he can catch it once or twice, then take it from his mouth gently giving the command'out','give', etc. This will teach him that birds are in the air and that he should watch for them, but cannot catch them. Remember, whatever word you choose to give a command, always use the same word in all your lessons.
   
3. You can also purchase game'scent' that you can rub on an article to be retrieved. This too, will aid in getting your dog interested in hunting.
   
4. To develop your dog's nose, play HIDE and SEEK with him. If he's used to being in the house, hide the bird wing in various places around the house. Graduate from easy to hard. Tell him to'find the bird','hunt it out', etc. Eventually go on to doing this outside, making sure he is not distracted by other things or people. He will soon look forward to this FUN game and you will have a hard time putting that bird wing in a place where he can't find it.
   
   
   

RETRIEVING

The spaniel is a natural retriever - there is usually no problem on that score. A puppy will try to grab anything that moves (and some that don't) and run with it. They are never too young to start retrieving any type of article. However all spaniels (in my opinion) should be 'force broke' to have a completely reliable retrieve. There are many methods of 'force breaking' and you should select one that uses the least amount of  'force' required to accomplish your goal of a always reliable retrieve. This is very important, as your spaniel must be completely reliable and there will come a day when he says (by his actions) that he doesn't feel like retrieving whatever you ask, when you ask! You must have a way to enforce your commands when this happens. Most spaniels are old enough for this training after 8 months of age....do not use these methods on younger pups. There are many good books on force breaking, just pick yours and get started, remembering to keep up on the praise and rewards during this training!

1. 1. Use the natural retrieving as soon as a puppy is on it's feet and start playing with a bird wing.
2. Entice him with it, throw it, and let him run and grab it.
3. Coax him back to you - clapping your hands and backing away from him - using the command, 'COME' and constantly praising him.
4. At first, practice this in a long narrow area (such as a hallway in your house) so that the pup HAS to come back to you. Then go on to open areas, out in your backyard and eventually out into an open field.
5. When he is used to the bird wing - other articles can be used, such as:
   • Several canvas training dummies the proper size for your dog's mouth or similar article found in you house. I use an old sock, with another sock inside, with a knot tied to hold the sock in it.
   • a dowel about 6 inches long, diameter to suit dog's size. This is an especially good article for teaching him to hold something in his mouth, until he is given the command 'give' or 'out'.
   • ordinary scrub brush - to teach him to carry something, but not to chew on it.
   • wooden or plastic dumb-bell . . . the type used in open obedience work.
   • in most of your training you could alternate using the items listed. Don't use his playthings for his training.
6. Remember to use your obedience commands and/or the commands your dog knows best when doing retrieving work. But be CONSISTANT. The ideal dog will bring the bird 'to hand' - that is, he will come right to you, sit in front of you and give the bird to hand when he is told. You should remain in the same place - the dog should bring the bird to you.
7. A flashy retrieve may not seem necessary for ordinary hunting in the field - - but will definitely be an advantage in the Working Certificate Test for the difference in a W.D. or a W.D.X. and is required at the Senior and Master levels of the A.K.C. Hunting Tests.
8. When your dog is doing good retrieves either naturally or by voice commands, you can go on to giving him whistle commands. Just be sure he knows what each signal means. By repetition, he will associate the voice command with the whistle signal. Have patience and discover what works best for you and your dog. Whistle signals are a definite advantage, but are not required.
   
                    
   
   
   

INTRODUCING THE BIRD

Pigeons make excellent birds to work with as they are of medium size, plentiful and inexpensive. They are also one of the birds that could be used for the Working Certificate Test. You could also use quail, chukar partridge, then on to pheasant. ALWAYS be sure that you are using healthy birds. Introduce the bird gently. A dead bird is a good beginning as a dog doesn't have to concern himself with flapping wings and feet that could frighten him and perhaps damage his desire and attitude.

DEAD BIRD

1. Let your dog become familiar with the bird by smelling it and holding it in his mouth.
2. Make him EXCITED about it by teasing him with it and then throwing it for him to retrieve. He will probably go get it quite naturally.
3. Let him know it's the greatest thing he's ever had and that you like it too. Your excited and happy voice is a good training tool here.
4. When he retrieves it, be sure he always brings it back to you as he did the wing.
5. A dead bird can be frozen, then thawed partially and then used again.

LIVE BIRD

1. So as not to discourage your dog with the bird's flapping wings and sharp claws - and so it can't fly.
   • Crop or pull the bird's flight feathers on one wing -- or
   • put a nylon stocking over the body of the bird, leaving his feet and head exposed.
2. Toss the bird, letting it land on the ground and have the dog retrieve it in the same manner.

3. 'Plant' the bird in a field, preferably under adequate cover. Have him find it and retrieve it.
   
      
   

PLANTING BIRDS

When planting a pigeon or quail for dog work, just hold the bird with wings pressed against it's body and shake it with its head down until it is dizzy. Younger birds do NOT require as much dizzying as older birds. When using chukar or pheasant don't dizzy them, just tuck their head under their wing and put them down, holding both legs and body, while stretching them out on the ground. You will be able to feel them relax. When you feel this just quietly release your hold and step back away from them. If they start to get up as you release them, just quickly hold them down and stretch them out again. Place it in cover sufficiently heavy to completely conceal the bird. It is a good idea, before placing the bird, to wipe it around on the ground where you are planting it in order to leave plenty of scent. ALWAYS try not to disturb the area if you can. When working the dog on game try to give the dog the benefit of the wind regardless of how mild it might be. Whenever using planted birds, be sure the game has been down long enough to allow any human scent to diminish. This, of course, varies with scenting conditions. Some days scenting conditions seem to be much more favorable than others. Hot, dry days are usually the poorest scenting conditions for the dog. Always be sure the birds are well hidden from sight. It is important that the dogs do not see the game, particularly young dogs.  On the other hand, do not bury the birds so deeply in the cover that you 'lock' in all the scent. Remember, plant your birds so that the dog is always being worked into the wind. By doing this the dog can pick up the scent readily. As the dog becomes more proficient at finding birds, you can start working the dog in varying wind directions.


ACQUAINTING YOUR DOG WITH THE GUN

The sound of a gun should not disturb your dog if introduced properly. Spaniels - introduced correctly are not, as a rule, gun-shy.  But it is a good idea to break them in slowly - - especially a young dog. Gun-shyness in trained hunting dogs is rare. In most cases we hear about it involves dogs that have not been trained. They are taken into the field to hunt before they know what it is all about and a loud blast from a shotgun nearby naturally scares them badly. To quote Charles Goodall, from The Complete English Springer Spaniel, 'A pitiful sight indeed is the cringing, slinking, fear-ridden dog of any breed that has been made gun-shy by some unthinking or uninformed individual. The condition is produced entirely by man, for very few if any, dogs are ever born gun-shy.' This problem is so easy to prevent with proper conditioning and training.

1. During feeding time: Shoot a cap pistol off while he is eating. The irritation at this time teaches him to ignore the unexpected noise - while busy with his food. Mealtime is one of the most pleasant times in a puppy or dog's life. This is the time to work on conditioning in the preparation for using the gun. The 1st day or 2, only shoot the cap pistol up in the air 1 or 2 times. As time goes on, try several more shots as he eats.
2. More conditioning: using your rod and line. During backyard training or a jaunt in the field with the rod and line, heel him to a certain point. Have him sit and stay. Trail the wing on the ground, then fly it and shoot off the cap gun - again the noise is associated with FUN and EXCITEMENT. From this time on you should stop shooting the cap pistol at feeding time. Watch the dog for any reaction, other than excitement, and go back a step at any time he shows the least amount of fear, repeating the conditioning until he doesn't react in a fearful manner.
3. Gradually work into louder fire - such as a 22 blank pistol, a 410 or 20 gauge shotgun. A dummy launcher makes a good loud noise without actually shooting and also is a good tool for retrieving training.

Spaniels are very quick to catch on. They will soon learn to associate the sound of a shotgun with a falling bird to be retrieved. They will 'know' that when you get your shotgun out - it's time to go hunting.

Breaking a dog of gun-shyness is usually a job for a pro. Every case is different and we do not feel that there is any set of rules for such a problem. Hopefully, you won't run into this undesirable trait in your dog. If you do - consult some good books or a professional trainer for advice and with a lot of time and patience, you can probably overcome it.

ALSO, don't forget that the dog can't do everything. You do need to practice shooting that shotgun. Some spaniels actually get quite upset when their master misses a bird. In preparing for a Working Certificate or A.K.C. Hunting Test, however, gunners are used in the field - so that you can devote your time to controlling the dog. I have trained cocker spaniels to the Senior Hunting test level without ever shooting a shotgun. I just use a dummy launcher for training alone and rely on friends to shoot for me as I practice with my dog in the field.