Training Tips: Part 3

QUARTERING AND FLUSHING Most breeds of spaniels are flushing dogs. His task is to find game - usually upland birds - by ranging back and forth along the hunting course just ahead of the gunner. This is called quartering and unusually comes quite naturally to a good spaniel. To help your dog refine this you can use the following:

Select a distant object as your walking goal.
Then with the command 'hie on'(or what ever command you wish), waving your hand and arm to the side he is to go, start walking at an angle from your general line of advance. Your pup should rush from you, eager to lead the way.
Never let your dog get behind you. At first, if he goes the other way, just turn around too. Before long he'll learn that he belongs in front of you.
After 15 to 25 yards, toot your whistle (2 short toots), call 'come around' and turn the other way. Your dog will look around to see what the noise is about and when he sees you walking in a new direction, he'll bound off withyou. You can also call him by name to get his attention.
Wave him on with your hand. At first he won't notice it, but eventually he will connect all the signals together. This is nothing like the obedience ring - you can repeat your signals, wave your arm until the dog notices it while training the dog, but you should tone it down when you come under judgement.
Keep up this zigzagging, whistle blowing and hand waving for several lessons. Then, gradually make your turn angle smaller and smaller until you are walking in a straight line and your spaniel is zigzagging (quartering) ahead of you.
Spaniels are NOT to point game. They are to charge at the birds, thus flushing it out of its hiding place. A dog who has been worked with birds will know what is expected of him and will not hesitate at flushing that bird out. Always encourage and praise him when he finds a bird. He MUST learn that he is doing something that pleases you greatly!!
After your dog has been introduced to the bird and is learning to quarter, plant a bird in the field. Send your dog through the planted area making him quarter. Give your dogs every advantage by keeping the wind coming into his nose as you proceed forward. If you have introduced the bird to the dog properly, he will be birdy. When he scents the bird, he should charge in without hesitation and FLUSH the bird. If the dog does not get the scent, DO NOT stop in the bird area and let your dog 'putter' around. Continue forward and then return through the bird area. If the dog finds the bird, but hesitates or circles the bird, - - RUSH in with him and flush the bird. Make it fun and exciting for him. Remember, the more birdy and excited you get your dog in the introduction to the bird - - the harder he will charge at the flush!
The biggest factor in getting your dog to 'cover the ground' is that once he learns there are birds hiding in that cover, he'll do it enthusiastically. This just takes time and experience - - experience on planted birds and experience in actually hunting game birds. A spaniel's tail is a great indicator for you . . . when it starts wagging with great zest, you can be sure there's a bird close by. Always keep your eyes on your dog when he's making game. This will make the difference in your success in the field of a bag limit or an empty hand.
Field Trial dogs are taught to 'sit' or 'hup' when the bird is flushed. We have not covered that here, as it is NOT required for the Working Certificate or the Junior and Senior levels of the A.K.C. Hunting Test. It is required at the Master level of the A.K.C. Hunting Tests. However, it can and should be taught as it is safer to hunt over a dog that doesn't leap up after the bird as it flushes. There is a list of books on the last page that you may use for help with this facet of training.

WATER RETRIEVING

The water retrieve is necessary for the Working Tests and A.K.C. Hunting Tests. Before you take your puppy or older dog to the water for retrieving work he should be picking up, carrying and retrieving the training dummy and/or similar objects that you have been throwing for him on land. It also helps if he knows what water is - by walking in the field, wading shallow puddles or walking through creeks, streams, etc. - especially swim a few strokes. He will develop confidence by familiarizing him with water at the beach, ponds or lakes. Plan on getting wet yourself by wading in shallow water and playing with him and coaxing him out until he swims. With you there, he shouldn't be too scared. A puppy will usually follow an older dog without fear. Don't just throw a dog into the water - coax him in gently. Try to introduce your dog to water when it is not too cold as this could make him reluctant to retrieve. Start throwing your dummy into shallow water . . . gradually getting the dog to swim for it. You are reminded that the training method is just the start - as the lessons progress keep throwing the dummy farther and farther. Make longer and longer swims for the dog. DON'T throw the dummy 50 yards out as soon as the dog shows an interest in swimming - - A gradual, repetitive process assures success. Don't risk a setback by pushing him too fast and causing failure. By the time you begin water training, your dog should be used to the birds and should LOVE retrieving them to you. You may want to use your dummy at first, however, just as you did in land work. Once he has mastered dummies and is swimming right back and bringing them to you, then go on to your pigeons and eventually pheasant. Throw a dead bird that is devoid of blood scent. A cautious or insecure dog won't be frightened by the flapping wings of a wounded bird. Another intermediate step you may want to try is to leave a fresh dead pigeon in the refrigerator overnight - next day, make the introduction to feathers with the cold bird. The dog will be less likely to play with or maul this chilled specimen than he would a warm bird. Continue using the SAME commands you used in land retrieving. Don't confuse him. Most spaniels are natural swimmers and are very eager to 'charge' in and retrieve for you. There is much more to be said for water retrieving. It would take a book to cover all aspects. We hope this 'cram' course will help you to develop a top gun dog that will enter or cross water to PICK-UP the game you knock down.

TRAINING BOOKS FOR SPANIELS

GUN DOG TRAINING SPANIELS AND RETRIEVERS, by Kenneth C. Roebuck. Published by Stackpole Books. A good basic book on training spaniels although he pushes the 'English' method of steadying the dog from the beginning. He has a positive attitude about the rarer spaniel breeds. (There is also a video by the same author, available thru Dunn's catalog)

HUNTING DOG KNOW-HOW, by David Michael Duffey. Published by Winchester Press. A book which covers the training of all three types of hunting dogs, but presents spaniel training 'American style' - hunting the dog for a year before steadying him.

HOW TO TRAIN YOUR OWN GUN DOG, by Charles S. Goodall. Howell Book House. While using the 'English' method, this book has an excellent training schedule which outlines the order things should be taught to the spaniel. This book also covers the training of all three types of hunting dogs.

TRAINING SPANIELS, by Joe Irving & David C. Charles. Newton Abbot, London, North Pomfret, VT 05053 A recent book by a professional trainer in England. It covers the training of spaniels from start to finish. Being English, it discusses working on rabbits and hares and 'dropping' (downing instead of sitting) the dog to the whistle

SPANIELS FOR SPORT, by Talbot Radcliffe. Howell Book House. The original English classic on training spaniels.

TRAINING YOUR SPANIEL, by Clarence J. Pfaffenberger. Howell Book House. A complete guide to spaniel training in all its phases. . .household companion. . .hunting. . .obedience work. . .field and show. This is a valuable book to be used for any age dog, but is most valuable if you are just starting out with a new puppy.

**HUP! TRAINING FLUSHING SPANIELS THE AMERICAN WAY, by James B. Spencer. Howell Books. This new book was named Best Training Book of 1992 by the Dog Writers of America Association. It should be a fine training tool with many good pictures.

GAME DOG, by Richard A. Wolters. E.P. Dutton. While this book was written for training retrievers, it also does a good job on early puppy training, handling lessons and quartering lessons.

RETRIEVER TRAINING FOR THE DUCK HUNTER, by Robert Milner, Nassau Press. This book has three strengths; 1) it's discussion on modifying training techniques to the dog's personality, 2) it's break- down of training into lessons and the repetition of those lessons, and 3) it's discussion on force breaking a dog to retrieve.

OTHER PUBLICATIONS OF INTEREST

GUN DOG MAGAZINE, published by Stover Publishing Co...P.O. Box 343, Mt Morris, IL 61054-8088. This magazine has training articles about all three types of hunting dogs and also other articles of interest such as hunting tales, fiction, and helpful hints. I find that it's biggest drawback is it's concentration on pointing dogs and retrievers.

**Spaniels In The Field Magazine, Contact Henry Henriques, 5312 Wolf Knoll Rd, Orr, MN 55771. phone: 218-255-2301 Magazine published quarterly for the interest and advancement of all flushing spaniels. This magazine has excellent articles to help you train your dog. Also reports on Hunting Tests and will print a picture of your new titleholder.

** means these are my recommended to buy or subscribe to these publications. If your funds are limited...a good library will have all these books so that you can check them out.
= Can be ordered from this web site at the On-Line bookstore (soon!)

A good all-round catalog for books, videos and most any training item you might want is SCOTT'S DOG SUPPLY, phone: 1(800) 966-3647.

TRAINING TIPS FOR THE A.S.C. SPANIEL WORKING TESTS AND ON TO A.K.C. HUNTING TESTS

Edited by Ruth Tabaka ASC Western Field Chairman
Revised 12/98

COCKER SPANIELS IN THE FIELD by Ruth Tabaka

(This was originally printed in the beautifully illustrated book 'The World of the Cocker Spaniel' by Lloyd Alton & Bill Gorodner and published by T.F.H. in 1994)

My belief is that we should remember what our cockers were originally bred for and to make an effort to bring out these inherent qualities in today's cocker spaniel.

HISTORY The cocker spaniel has always been a hunting dog. The first formal A.K.C. Field Trial took place in 1925, organized by Ella B. Moffit of Rowcliff fame. The American Spaniel Club held its first licensed trial in 1930 with an entry of 72. These trials became part of a regular circuit of about eight licensed trials held each fall in the Northeastern states. California Cocker Fanciers held field trials for many years and there was some intermittent interest in the Midwest. There were Cocker Trials held in the Northwest during the same period. From 1953 to around 1962 the Field Trial Committee of the American Spaniel Club annually held the National Cocker Championship Trial. Since 1963 there has not been a licensed field trial for Cocker Spaniels, due to the lessened interest of the fancy. (Note: Since the above was written, there has been a new interest in field trials for Cocker Spaniels - at this time the only clubs putting these tests on are English Cocker Spaniel Clubs, and English Springer Spaniel Clubs that are holding field trials that are for English and American Cocker Spaniels, as by A.K.C. rules, the smaller spaniels are not eligible for the Springer trials. ) [ed. note: Since this was updated, the American Spaniel Club has begun sponsoring a September Field Trial, held in 1998 and 1999 in conjunction with the Maine Spaniel Field Trial Club's annual Cocker Field Trial..]

There was nothing formal being done to develop the fancy's interest until the American Spaniel Club began offering Working Tests in 1977. This ongoing program has been one of the few to address the lack of a program to test the Cocker Spaniel's hunting ability. Since that time around 100 cockers have earned (as of 1992) Working Certificates; W.D. or Working Dog Excellent, W.D.X. About a quarter of these are also show champions, another quarter have obedience and some have both show and obedience titles. This shows the versatility of the breed. In 1983 the Washington State Cocker Spaniel Club revived the field trial when they held the first Sanctioned Field Trial since 1963's licensed event. The American Spaniel Club also held Sanction B Field Trials during the same period. These events were held twice yearly until the inception of the American Kennel Club's Hunting Test Program for Flushing Spaniels in 1988. The American Spaniel Club hosted the first A.K.C. Hunting Test in history in conjunction with there 1988 Summer National, held in San Jose, California. With a format that requires a dog to earn four qualifying scores for the Junior Hunter title, five for the Senior Hunter title and six for the Master Hunter title, it makes for a very challenging goal for the dog and handler to accomplish. Since that time a number of Cocker Spaniels have earned A.K.C. Hunting Titles. Cockers earning Junior Hunter Titles (J.H.) listed in chronological order (up to 1993): 1. Lynndale's Mr Deuteronomy, C.D.X., W.D.X., J.H. - owner, Barbara Rettig 2. Ch. Marquis Chim Chim Cheree, C.D., J.H. - owners, Joelyn Knoll and Karen Marquis. 3. Hi Top Spats, C.D., W.D., J.H. - owner, Louise Hendryx 4. Emenee Ransom Of Redchief, C.D., J.H., - owners, Edith and Michael Colman 5. Marshwalker's Kaydee Bee, J.H., - owners Diane & Karl Ashenbrenner. 6. Windy Hill's Lord Peter, C.D., T.D., J.H., - owner, Martha Steinbach. 7. Brian's Black Jackdaniels, J.H., - owner, Brian Schirmacher. 8. Ce Ce Ann Linehan, J.H., - owners, Bob and Marsha Linehan. Those Cockers which earned Senior Hunter Titles (S.H.) are: 1. Deidree Shannon Dodge, U.D.T., W.D.X., S.H., - owner, Debbie Dodge. 2. Am & Can Ch. Tabaka's Tilt The Balance, C.D.X., W.D.X., S.H., - owners, Ruth Tabaka and Marion Carey. 3. Ask Mee For Cha-Collette, C.D., W.D.X., S.H., - owner, Kathleen MacCarchran. 4. Kathleen's Phew Bear, C.D., W.D.X., S.H., - owner, Kathleen MacCarachran. 5. Pudg'Gee Ann Linehan, W.D.X., S.H., - owners, Bob and Marsha Linehan. Since I wrote the above, a number of Cockers have earned A.K.C. Hunting Titles with the first Master Hunter being, Ch. Petts Southwest Breeze, W.D.X., S.H., M.H. ("Ruby"), - owner, Trish Jackson. Since Trish broke the ice on the Master Hunter title, Ruby's daughter, Madison's Black Lace, M.H. as well as Pudg'Gee Ann's Pride & Joy, W.D.X., M.H.. & her litter mate, Pudg'Gee Ann's Heart & Soul, W.D.X., M.H. & Pudg'Gee Ann's Patches McNatches, W.D.X., M.H. have also earned their Master Hunter titles.These latter three birdy Cockers are owned by Bob & Marsha Linehan, and are trained by Bob. Also, Pudg'Gee Ann's Pride & Joy, WDX, MH (Shana Ann) is the only cocker spaniel that was eligible for the 1998 National Field Trial held October, 1998. To earn this, Shana Ann had to earn a placement in the Open class at a field trial. She did this in Washington State on September 11, 1998 to become the first ACS since 1963 to do so. Edging out Shana (by one week) for the honor of being the VERY first ACS to place at a Field Trial in modern times, was another Ruby daughter, Madison's Pride and Joy, WDX, who had earned a placement in the puppy stake of ASC's Labor Day weekend Field Trial, just a week earlier.

TRAINING A Cocker Spaniel puppy (eight weeks is ideal) is usually a natural retriever and this may be encouraged by the use of bird wings taped to a small canvas training dummy. Open the stitched end and remove stuffing to make the dummy soft and small enough for the pup to hold in its mouth. Live birds can also be introduced at a young age, by letting the puppy chase homing pigeons. No shooting should be done at this time! Cockers should also be allowed to run freely, under supervision, in the field before their coats grow too profuse. They can also be introduced to water at this time, providing the water is not too cold. A young dog will take to swimming if it has been made familiar with water. Take care not to frighten it by rushing the new experience. The best way to encourage an uncertain dog is to go into the water with them at first. Just keep taking them, perhaps with an older dog that swims well to encourage that desire to keep up with another dog. The time spent waiting for a cocker to mature for the show ring can be used for the purpose of this early training, along with the 'yard work' which, if done properly, will not 'spoil' the dog for a show career. This training is imperative if the cocker is to learn to work with its handler. The older cocker will also make a satisfactory gun dog, but may not have the flair of a cocker that is started as a puppy. With the mature, full coated cocker, the type of terrain used for training, i.e. the amount of burrs, berry vines, etc. will determine whether or not it is necessary to shorten the coat to make it easier for the dog to move around freely and also to make it easier to comb out. The best advice is to judge for yourself the effort it takes.